A Room with a View

This post will let the pictures do the talking.

The important thing about moving to a new place and creating a new home is, well, finding a home. The central factor to finding a good home is generally the same around the world: location location location. And Kathmandu --technically, Patan, across the river where I'm living --is no exception. With an infusion of international organizations and UN scale up in the last 5 years, housing prices have shot up faster than your blood pressure when negotiating a decent taxi fare. But fear not, as there is an endless supply of real estate 'agents' trolling the lanes and neighborhoods who can sniff out a homeless expat from a mile away and are creepily eager to provide their "support". I've been no exception to grabbing on to any potential house leads, eagerly anticipating every appointment with the hopeful glow of a giddy teenage girl on her first date. And the scary thing is, the questions about my potential house have been similar to those days back in high school, while Duran Duran crooned on about being hungry like a wolf or A Flock of  Seagulls lamented some kind of space age love song (what was that song about, anyway?) Questions such as : is this going to be good? Will it lead to a second date? How much is this going to cost? What comes with it? Other wonderings include what secrets you might find out later, after you've already committed and how to get out if things go poorly. Not to mention all that maintenance that comes with both a house and a relationship.Maybe we've all been preparing for househunting for a while now...

But luckily there is such a thing as temporary housing to take the edge of all that angst. And its even better when it comes with a lovely view and fresh air. ....

As can be seen, Patan and Kathmandu are surrounded by a ring of mountains and hills...the Kathmandu Valley hugs close the now several million inhabitants who squeeze themselves into any corner. Not to be outdone, these hills also hold lots of little respite hiking and relaxation points for all those folks who gets stressed out every day by this (ignore the chatter in the car)"This" being the lack of any traffic lights in the entire valley.

or this:

Personally, I'm finding that the best approach is to draw on those clever Romans: When in Nepal, do as the Nepalis do and leave road driving to the experts: the rickdraw drivers. This is the best way to check things out without losing your mind or your way:

Now, if the househunting thing really gets you down, you can always take a break and just get out. As in, out of the city. Out of the area. And into the far west of Nepal, with views that make everything seem better:

Just Exhale.

Something New Something True

Anyone who is armed with a passport, thirst for travel and a complex tangle of desires to make a home while "on the roam"  knows the feeling: leaving the clouds after a long flight, gazing with somewhat unfocused eyes out the window, you feel the sigh of relief when the wheels screech down and the plane eventually comes to that jerky roll-stop-bing signal to unbuckle the seat belt time and begin the crush to exit the plane phase. Standing there in the aisle --wondering "why did I jump up only to stand here now, with my bag and carry on crap wedged between my knees."--eventually you are among the liberated crowd to go and fight the next battle for finding your wrinkled money to buy your visa and to develop a  flash of religious fervor to pray to the luggage gods that you will in fact be reunited with your bags. This time you *really mean it*. Using your sharpened elbow skills to yank your stuff off the belt  (why is there always THAT person standing right in front of where you need to be to reach your bag?! The divine reincarnation of THAT person anywhere in the world to me ranks up there with other global mysteries such as the logic behind economy seat spacing and if plane seat cushions really do in fact work as flotation devices). Dealing with customs is just too much to even think about, much less write about.

Brand new tag after maiden transpacific flight to KTM.

Having been rejoined with your temporary home in a suitcase, it begins again. Something new. A new way to find a taxi or to swat away a taxi. A new SIM card. A new hotel number. A new time zone. Soon, a new supermarket, cafe and pharmacy and bookstore. But right now, still at Airport Number I've Lost Count,  you begin to find the person with your name sign, who has probably spent some time already looking for you past all the  "I live here" faces that come out from the international arrivals terminal. I have a theory that all drivers sent to pick up arriving expats are encoded with a secret language that only they share to help each other spot their human cargo. With the lift of an eyebrow and a twitch of the face, they can communicate things like "is that one yours? no, dressed like a hippie. They'll take the bus." "How about that one? No, looks too well dressed for my non profit pick up...she's got the Hyatt Regency van pick up.." ..."oh, I bet that's her,  trying to look friendly and open but with the edge of someone whose been flying for 36 hours. Good luck finding yours!" This connection marks another new: a meeting of people who will usually end up spending significant time together driving to the office,  looking for housing and maneuvering embassy car security for meetings.

Something true remains amid all the newness. True curiosity. Where DO people here learn to drive? oh right, not necessary to learn. Another traffic culture embracing the Nike culture to Just Do It. If the world is my oyster, it is also the place of endless opportunity to lose your life just crossing the street. True kindness as in "here madame, let me organize your 4 suitcases and waltz them through customs for you without a care." But right, that kind of kindness comes for a price of about $5 if you can bargain, and $10 if you think "well lets' see, in the States or Europe, I'd have to pay..." and get lost in that useless comparison.  True patience. Patience with all the new and old things, and everything in between. Truly important questions: What is the exchange rate here again? Where can I get bottled water? Is it fine for a woman to grab a taxi off the street or should the hotel call one? Why do people appreciate hearing dogs bark all night? and wait, what? There is a 15 minute time difference between here and India?!

Truly a new start here in Kathmandu.